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The
Confirmation of
Andrew and James
Capper took
place
on Sunday
18th February
2007
see
pictures
here
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It was on
July 1st 1973 that Bishop
Colin MacPherson conducted the
Blessing and Dedication of the
church to Our Lady, Star of
the Sea. It was the first
Roman Catholic church on
the Island of Mull to be
re-established since the
Reformation.
A small ruin in
Tobermory graveyard is believed
to be the remains of a chapel of
Repose where bodies lay awaiting
burial in pre-Reformation times,
but no other evidence of a local
Catholic community is known even
though the gaelic name for
Tobermory means “ Well of Mary
“ referring to Mary,
Mother of Christ.
Nearer to the
present time, a small chapel was
maintained in the original
Glenforsa Estate for family use.
It was a small corrugated roofed
house and was left open for all
to use. The family at Glenforsa
employed a Jesuit priest as a
tutor for their children, but
the family left Mull shortly
after the war years.
From 1948 to the
1973 church opening there were
efforts by missionary priests
and lay brothers to serve the
Catholics on Mull. The
Redemptorist priests from Perth
were based at Letterwalden, near
Benderloch, and they celebrated
Mass in the living rooms of the
three or four Catholic families
they found here. They kitted out
a small green van with sleeping
bags and toured the island, in
their words, “looking for souls
“. Their visits ceased in 1955.
Priests from the
Cathedral in Oban would visit
Mull on a monthly basis-
Thursday evenings in winter,
more frequently in summer. The
priest would travel from Oban to
Grasspoint on Sunday mornings
and was taken back by car to
Grasspoint for the afternoon
excursion boat to Oban. The
altar was set up in the Aros
Hall, the Drill Hall, Salen Hall
and various living rooms. In
1957 Fr Wynn (now Mgr Wynn)
offered his Mull Mass in the
Drill Hall, Tobermory and became
the chief ally of the small band
of Catholics who just wanted a
church. Bishop Kenneth Grant
agreed to the setting up of a
Chapel fund and the generosity
of visitors to Mass on Mull was
prevailed upon. Up to 1970,
several sites were considered
and then rejected. In the mean
time costs were soaring and the
fund grew only slowly. Then, in
1970, Mrs Betsy MacAllister
offered a piece of ground and a
small chalet behind her house in
Victoria St. Tobermory, to the
Bishop, for conversion to a
Chapel.Then began two years of
hard labour as heating, plumbing
and furnishing began. The Mass
of Blessing and Dedication was
con-celebrated by Fr Wynn and
the Bishop. The reading was
from Ephesians 2 v.19-22.
During the
winter and spring of 1984, much
needed repair and maintenance
work was carried out by
parishioners Roger Felter and
Neil MacInnes; at the same time
they made alterations to
accommodate extra seating and
laid cork tiles on the floor.
The numbers of
parishioners and visitors have
swelled and reduced many times
since the 1973 dedication, but
hundreds of people have
worshipped in this little
church, maintained by the
priests from Oban, and
parishioners who have kept the
Faith.
Christianity
on
Mull.
To think of a
church on Mull, any church, and
immediately one thinks of Iona and
Columba.
Yet he was not
the first or the only Christian
connected with the Island. St
Ninian was before him. However
so much has been written of him
that visitors and locals think
of him as the be all and end all
of Christianity in this area.
So to begin my
search I start with Colum.
He was born
between 518 and 523, into the
reigning families of Ireland.
Both his mother and father were
of royal blood and, this being
so, he was well educated. As a
youth he became a pupil of St
Finnian, the founder of an
ecclesiastical school, around
450 at the head of Strangford
Lough. It was here that Columba
was made a deacon of the Church.
He also studied for a time,
Irish literature and rhetoric
under another Finnian, St
Finnian of Clonard, a Christian
bard.. It was during this time
that stories of Columba's
miracles spread. After this
Columba was ordained a priest,
founded the monastery of Durrow,
the around 561 he blotted his
copy book. The battle of
Cooldrevney is believed to have
been instigated by Columba's
behaviour.
After that
Adomnan, who gives us the story
of Columba's life, tells that a
synod was assembled to
excommunicate Columba. However
he was sent instead to convert
the Picts.
It is here that
we must remember that Ninian,
who is recorded by Venerable
Bede, returned home from Rome
via Tours and in doing so
absorbed many of the ideas of
Martin. Tradition tells us that
Ninian carried his mission
beyond the Solway with the
intention of converting the
Picts. We are told he built his
church at Whithorn in 397,
dedicating it to St Martin.
This is the '
Candida casa ' of history.
Almost 200 years before Columba
was born.
Before I return
to Columba I must point out that
Bede tells us that the Southern
Picts, by the teaching of Ninian
'forsake the errors of idolatry
' long before Columba's mission.
Ninian was reputed to have taken
his mission up the West coast
and inland as far as the Great
Glen. Wherever he went cannot be
proven; what can is that there
were Christian converts before
Columba. Even St Patrick
launched an attack on
'apostate picts ' in early 400.
So when Columba
and his twelve attendants
arrived on our Western seaboard
it wasn't all heathens and it
was a very different country
than it is today.
These Islands
were not 'a place to
escape to' but were the centre
of the world. Not thickley
populated, but they were able to
support balanced communities,
growing crops, plying trade and
fighting fiercely for their
interests in the battles of the
Picts and Dalreadans. They
weren't the fringe, they were a
significant part of the kingdom
of Dalriada that covered Ireland
and the present area known as
Argyll and Bute. These people
who lived here were well worth
strenuous efforts to bring
within the Christian fold.
Iona is the
latinised name, the Gaelic name
was Hy or simply I. With the
coming of Columba Iona became
the Mother Church of Alba within
Dalriada, and Columba became the
recognised religious leader of
his people. The form of worship
practised was that practised
throughout Ireland. The
preaching of Columba was the
word of God as taught by the
apostles and evangelists.
Celebration of the Eucharist
took place during fixed
festivals.
Columba set out
to convert the Druids; no one
really knows how he did it. Some
say that because he was not so
far away from his own Celtic
superstitions, he won them over
with his 'magic'.
The influence of
Columba and his brethren began
to spread throughout Dalriada,
and by the 6th century the
Dalriadan Scots were living in
comparative peace. After
Columba's death the Abbey
continued with their teaching,
but Rome was beginning to be
upset by this Scots church.
Augustine was
sent by the pope to bring back
into the fold, the British
church and the Scots.So the two
factions of the Christian church
began to move together. There
were arguments as to when Easter
was to be held. The Celts held
theirs on the day the Jews held
their Passover. Rome determined
otherwise and Pope Honorius
wrote directly to the Celts
asking if they " in the utmost
borders of the earth " were
wiser than all the ancient and
modern Churches of Christ. (
Rome was becoming the centre of
the known world. )
In 632 the Abbot
of Iona was told that the Clergy
of Ireland ( the Irish kingdom
of Dalriada) has accepted the
Roman Easter, but Iona did not
follow suit. The Celtic monks
continued for many years to
trudge vast distances to carry
the message of the Gospels as
taught by Columba. Even
Augustine, whose seat was
Canterbury, admired them.
However, the Synod of Whitby
called in 664 was the beginning
of the end of what was the
Columban Church.
Eventually Iona
conformed to the Roman Easter
and the Roman tonsure, but
continued to venerate Columba
rather than Peter. All these
things we know because they were
written down by Adomnan and
Bede. Adomnan wrote about the
numerous visits of Columba and
his Companions but to trace
these places is like some large
jig-saw without the picture.
Even then the pieces do not
always fit. What we do know is
that the area was dominated by
Iona, so many of the dedications
of Chapels and burial grounds,
to say nothing of the stones,
wells and streams, were to
Columba or other Irish Saints
associated with him.
These notes give
a little of what is known of the
beginning of Christianity on
Mull.
The
'KILS' of Mull and its Islands
'Kil' as a
prefix indicates an
ecclesiastical site named or in
use before the Norse invasion
and as the Vikings came in the
early 9th century, so the 'Kils'
of Mull date back to Columba or
earlier.
It is known that
there were seven medieval
churches on Mull in the early
15th century annexed to the
Abbey of Iona. Before
talking of the churches I would
like to tell you of other sites
connected to early
Christianity. As we begin
with Iona so I will start on the
Ross.
Near to
Kilvickeon chapel, on the rocky
shore is Scoor Cave. Here
on the walls are many
small markings. There are
Latin and Greek crosses similar
to those found in the Nun's
Cave, Carsaig, further to the
East along the coast. The
RCAMS suggest that these may
have been made by people who
occupied the cave in early
Christian times. The Nun's
Cave has the Gaelic name of
'Uamh nan Cailleach'; 'the cave
of the women'. There is
also a pass nearby to the top of
the cliffs jnown as the Nun's
Pass.
In a field at
Killunaig is a burial
ground. Nothing is left of
the early Church or grave
stones, but this site bears the
same name as the church of
Killunaig on Coll, both probably
dedicated to St Findora of Coll.
Into
Loch na Keal - 'the Loch of
the Cells'.
Many of the very
old burial grounds are now no
more than circulare shapes on
the ground, showing a different
green in spring, but local folk
will tell you they are there,
and "no one ever ploughs that
field". There is just such
a one at Balmeanach,
Gribun. No one knows the
name but no one touches it.
Further along at
Knock is another unnamed burial
ground, the earliest monument
dated 1745, but in Glen Cannel
is a different story. At
the entrance to the Glen is a
19th century sheepfold and you
will be told that the stones
used to make it were taken from
the houses and the burial
ground. It has no name but
to prove a point the remains of
the old burial ground appear as
stony mounds, and by looking
carefully you can find grave
markers in the ground and also
as part of the walling.
Killmore on the
way to Ulva Ferry. It
could mean 'Coille mor', the big
wood, it could also mean the
'Big Cell or Chruch'.
Amongst the ruins here are the
Bishop's garden, 'Garadh an
Easbuig' the Chapel and the Font
stone, all well known names
passed down through the
generations.
There is a
reputed burial groundat
Achronnich, at the foot of the
cliff, and below on the shore at
Port a' Chlaidh - 'Port of the
Cemetery' is a well defined
burial ground. This could
well be a church that was
dedicated to St Martin.
There are grave markers and
slate grave stones, one at least
dated, all within a roughly
circular enclosure.
Kilbrennan named
after St Brennan is just another
curved bank of turf with marking
stones, but again no one ever
ploughs that field, it is known
locally for what it is,
consecrated ground.
Cragaig,
Cillchriosd, Loarin Bay, Lephin,
Kildavie (Cell of David?) and
Lag na Cille, Garmony are just a
few known places on Mull which
have fragmentary enclosures,
some marker stones but nothing
else, just the knowledge handed
down from generation to
generation.
There are also
the wells Tobar Choluim Chille -
'St Columba's Well' in Glen
Byre. This name is given
to a fresh water spring which is
said to have medicinal
qualities. In Glen More is
'Tobar Leac ant Sagairt' - 'The
Priest's Well'. The story
goes that Killean became vacant
and being a very desirable
charge, Columba would not choose
between two applicants.
Instead he gave the vacancy to
the first of them to reach
it. The leading priest
flung himself down to drink
after the long pull up the Glen,
and either over indulged himself
with the cold water or was
eliminated by the overtaking
priest on realising his
advantage.
Christianity
on
Mull and its
Islands 1400
Onwards
At this time
there were 7 medieval churches
on Mull all annexed to Iona, and
of course these churches would
all have had minor cells
attached to them.
In November 1421
there is a mention of
Kilvickeuen... "Donald of Yle,
Lord of the Isles and Earldom of
Ross, on behalf if this his
chaplain and familiar Adan
Dominici, Vicar of the Parish
Church of Kilvickeuen for
dispensation to hold further
benefice"... And again thatsame
year in December he asked for
the extension of the benefice...
"requested for life".
Donald Lord of
the Isles also requested that 3
perpetual vicarages, one in
Tiree, the others in Kilfinichen
and Kilcolmkill in Mull, to be
united to the monastery of Iona.
One must
remember that there is nothing
new in the world. The
Abbots often "requested, put
forward or demanded that their
own sons were their
successors". In fact
many bishops wished to marry
their concubines. A great
many bishopes, as was Columba,
were members of reigning
families and so wished their
sons to be both legal and to
inherit the bishoprics.
Campbells
and MacLeans
As was usual on
Mull the two main families,
Campbell and MacLean continued
to have an Abbot in charge, or
not, until 1553, then a change
began...
The successor of
Roderick MacLean was one
Alexander Gordon who was a
friend of John Knox and a
protestant sympathiser, this
fact alone may have eased the
reformation into Iona
itself. The Campbells had
become very influential in
Argyll, one Earl of Argyll and
his son signed The First Band of
the Protestant Lords in 1557,
their aim being to establish the
reformed faith in Scotland.
They were
triumphant, and in the
revolution of 1559-1560 Papal
Authority was abolished in
Scotland, and the Reformed
Church was established.
In 1625 during
the reign of Charles I the
Lowland Calvinists revolted
against the High Church policies
of the King... and the
Covenantors were formed, with
Campbell, Earl of Argyll as
leader.
As the Campbells
were the most powerful and
disliked clan throughout the
Islands and Highlands, the folk
of the islands had a motive of
their own for supporting the
king. And if they were
Catholics or Episcopalians
threatened by Calvinists, that
made a double motive.
Mull
Fear of the
Campbells was deep within the
folk of Mull, so they must have
hoped for a Royal Victory, and
yet even at this time families
were divided. There were
still Catholic missionary
priests travelling through Mull
and adjacent Isles converting
some to the Church of
Rome. The MacLaines of
Lochbuie became Catholic while
Maclean of Duart remained
Episcopalian.
There is a story
about Fr Cornelius Ward, a
missionary priest who visited
Eigg in 1625. He was the
first priest to call since the
reformation, and the folk of
Eigg had been recieving
instructions from a protestant
minister.
However Fr Ward
soon reconciled the 200 folk of
Eigg to the Catholic faith.
Meanwhile the
Rev. McKinnon got to hear of
this and out he came with
soldiers, but Eigg folk being
sensible persuaded Rev. McKinnon
by foul means or fair to return
to Skye and leave them in
peace. MacDonald or
Clanranald who owned Eigg heard
of the fracas and bought off the
minister by offering him tithes
on Eigg if he would leave the
folk in peace.
It worked.
Hector MacLean of Duart though
surrounded by Catholics, and
opposed to the religion of Rome
remained an Episopalian.
However as soon as he died, his
son Lachlan was threatened again
by the Campbells, that unless he
joined the Covenanters, they,
the Campbells, would ruin
him. True to his word
Campbell Argyll did eventually
ruin Maclean of Duart and in
1659 MacLean lost all the lands
he possessed.
In 1674 Campbell
or Argyll invaded Mull with
2,000 men. It was at this
period in time that John Beaton
the senior representative of the
Pennycross medical family, was
the Episcopal minister in
Kilninian. One would have
thought him safe from waring
factors. He was not, and
when Calvinism triumphed in 1688
Beaton left Kilninian
destitute. He went to
Ireland taking with him his
library of medical manuscripts.
18th
Century
There has to be
a jump of 100 years now because
so little is written about the
religious activities on
Mull. With that jump we
come nearer to the Mull we know.
In 1771 Dr John
Walker visited the Island.
He found that it was already
divided into the 3 large
parishes we know today.
Kilfinichen and
Kilvickeuen, Kilninian and
Kilmore and Torosay. He
tells us that, "Ross which
contains Kilfinichen and
Kilvickeuen has four places of
worship; Kilfinichen, Bunessan,
Torrin and Icolumkil". He
also says that there are no
churches or manses in any place.
Torosay had
three places of worship;
Pennygown, Torosay and
Kinlochspelve, again with no
churches or manses.
In 1790, July
16th, T.T.Garnet noted his visit
to the Rev Alexander Frazer,
minister of the parish of
Torosay. He passed through
the village of Killean,
consisting of 20 - 30 miserable
huts. Mr Frazer resided a
very short distance from this
village, in a dwelling by no
means suitable to the situation
of a minister.
Mr Frazer said
he had entered a plea for manse
and a glebe, unsuccessfully.
The Minister
officiated at Kilninian and
Kilmore (Dervaig), Aros and Ulva
but neither had a manse or a
glebe. This is the only
parish where we are not told
there is no church, yet it does
not mention one in
writing. Local tradition
does have it that there has
always been a church of 'some
kind' at Kilninian.
At the time of
Dr. Walker's visit there were
5,325 people on Mull. There
were 10 people registered as
Papists, and those not of
native stock CATHOLICISM HAD
GONE.
It continues in
this vein. The statistical
accounts were written by the
indigenous ministers of the isle
and they give us the following
information.
1791
1st Statistical Account
Kilfinichen and
Kilvickeuen had a population of
3,002 but no one of the papist
religion in the parish.
Kilninian and Kilmore were
mentioned as having the ruins of
7 of 8 edifices that had
probably been chapels in the
time of Popery. There were
two churches built within the
parish in 1745. One at
Kilninian and one at Torosay
(Craignure). The minister
however had to travel around the
parish, and complained about his
pay! (What's new?) He
received £25 sterling with no
accommodation.
Mrs Sarah Murray
of Kensington on her journey
through Mull in 1803 said, "I
saw one kirk on the banks of the
Island of Mull in the parish of
Torosay, I believe there is one
in Kilninian, but not one
covered appropriate place is
there in the extensive parish of
Ross, for a minister of Christ's
gospel to preach in - even Iona
does not afford a better shelter
than a barn for the perfomance
of divine service..."
Mrs Murray also
mentions that she was to attend
a wedding in Bunessan.
However the young couple, who
were making their way around the
head of Loch Scridan, met up
with the missionary and begged
him to marry them immediately to
save them the long journey to
Bunessan.
As she writes
the wedding took place on the
shores of the loch with a local
witness.
New
Statistical Accounts 1843
This account saw
little change in Ross where the
population had risen to 4,102
but no papists at all.
There were however two new
churches, one at Bunessan and
one at Kilfinichen, though
services were still held at
Torrans. Kilvickeuen on
Ulva was stated by Rev D.
MacArthur the parish minister,
as having been a place of
worship during the dominance of
the Roman Church.
A Rev Duncan
Clerk, minister in Torosay
mentions the ruins of Killean
(below Gualachullish) and Lagan
(Lochbuie) as being used before
the reformation.
A
quote from 'Highland and
Islands' by
A.R.Hope-Moncrieff;
"The gentlemen
Johnson assets were inclined to
the Episcopalian Church: but
could not afford the services
beyond those of the parish
ministers who might have
preached in a room, at intervals
of two or three weeks, besides
the ruined chapels, which now
stand faithful witness of the
triumph of the reformation"...
Meg
Douglass's book
'Lost
Townships, Silent Voices'
is published
by Argyll and Bute
LibraryService
at
£20.00.
ISBN 1-903041-06-6
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